- Cigar
in the Bottle
- Casa
Fuente
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CIGAR IN THE
BOTTLE: CALVADOS XS AND THE FUENTE FORBIDDEN X
- Forbidden Pleasures - by Richard Carleton Hacker
They say there is no such thing
as a perfect world - but that doesn’t hold if you are in the
realm of whisk)e)y, wine, and cigars, one of the few
pallet-sensitive microclimates in which you can create your
own harmony in taste. And that is what this column is all
about.
Rather than order a favorite
drink and have someone say, “Would you like a cigar?” this is
the opportunity to forge that situation into a moment of
optimum pleasure by pairing a spirit or wine with the perfect
cigar in terms of complementary flavors and strengths.
Otherwise, a 100 proof Knob Creek would trounce a
medium-strength Macanudo Vintage like a herd of elephants
stampeding across a field of daisies. Or, a robust Ashton VSG
would completely smother the creamy nuances of a Midleton
Irish Whiskey. But shuffle these four combinations around, and
you have the perfect pairing.
Consequently, it is somewhat
ironic that this very first column for Patterson’s should
embrace one of the most elusive - yet elegant - spirit and
cigar pairings in the world.
Mention calvados, and most
people’s eyes glaze over. “Oh sure,” they say, “Calvados, my
uncle used to drive one. Never needed a tune-up.” |
 Cigar In The Bottle, a unique Forbidden X and 40
year old Grand Pommier XS calvados — a perfect pairing.
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Of course, readers know that Calvados
is a distilled apple cider made in Normandy, off the northwestern
coast of France. It can be an apéritif with tonic or ice, or enjoyed
as a digestif in a snifter. This unique fruit distillation has been
documented as far back as the 16th century, but it wasn’t until 1942
that Calvados became an “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.”
There are three different appellations
given to the growing, harvesting, and distillation of apples used in
calvados: Calvados, Calvados Domfrontais, and Calvados Pays d'Auge.
Calvados from the first two areas uses a single continuous column
distillation, and are, therefore, apple brandies. It is only Pays
d'Auge that mandates double distillation in copper pot stills. Thus,
this is truly an apple cognac. Typically, VSOP, XO and occasionally
20 Year Old Calvados is made. However, only one producer - Père
Magloire Calvados Distillery in Pont L'Eveque, the oldest and
largest Calvados distillery in Normandy - makes an older and rarer
award-winning 40-year-old Calvados, Grand Pommier XS. The special XS
designation was approved by the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée
especially for Grand Pommier (which means “great apple tree”).
Indeed, it is a fitting designation, for although there are four
different families of apples used in calvados, with 900 different
sub-varieties, only the top 100 species are selected for Grand
Pommier XS. Before distillation, each apple is washed with Evian
water. Although the distillery dates from 1821 and utilizes
traditional 19th century distillation methods, the facilities are
state-of-the art.
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Tres Amigos
(l. to. r.) Trumpet virtuoso Arturo Sandoval, author
Richard Carleton Hacker, and Carlos Fuente, Jr. at the
star-studded grand opening of Casa Fuente at Caesar’s Palace
Forum in Las Vegas. |
“The distillation of Grand Pommier XS
is really an art for them, and their head cellar master, Michel, has
more experience than any other cellar master in the area,” says
Matthew Bogosian, who, together with his partner Johnny Soyak, is
responsible for bringing Grand Pommier XS to the United States. “To
him, the Calvados is a bouquet of flowers that he arranges in
harmony.”
All of the time and care that it took
to create Grand Pommier XS has been worth it. At the San Francisco
World Spirits Competition, where I was one of the judges, this
exquisite apple spirit took top honors, winning a Double Gold Medal
as well as overall Best of Show in the Calvados category. Its
exceptional characteristics were apparent from my very first sip
during the judging. I immediately singled it out and identified it,
much to the chagrin of my fellow judges. I was one of the few who
had tasted it a year earlier, and its uniqueness is not something
one forgets.
“This is Grand Pommier,” I said, after
only a cursory nosing of the numbered glasses. A sip confirmed
it.
“You’re not supposed to tell us that,”
I was reprimanded by one of my fellow judges. “This is supposed to
be a blind tasting.”
Still, there was no mistaking the
distinctive flavors of burnt caramel, roasted apples, and sweet
cherries, with dark honey and oak in the finish.
My long-time friend Carlos Fuente,
Jr., who, with his father Don Carlos, heads up the largest
family-owned cigar company in the world, had the same reaction when
sipping his first snifter of Grand Pommier XS. “This is fantastic,”
he said. “I’ve got to create a cigar that we can smoke with it.”
The cigar born of this inspiration was
the Forbidden X, which is even rarer than the Fuente Fuente OpusX,
the world’s first all-Dominican puro, in which wrapper, binder, and
filler are all grown in the Dominican Republic.
“Originally, creating an all-Dominican
cigar was a forbidden project,” said Fuente. “Combining the
Forbidden X with a brandy made from apples, the forbidden fruit, is
a perfect pairing.”
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 “What we’ve built here is a dream, Hermano,”
Carlito Fuente (c.) tells Richard Carleton Hacker (r.), as Don
Carlos Fuente (l.) looks on.
Photos Marc Blake - Sword of Creation |
 Forbidden Johnny” Soyak, Carlos Fuente, Jr., and
Richard Carleton Hacker enjoy a trio of rare Opus X “A” cigars
at the Casa Fuente grand opening. Note the Cigar In The Bottle
display in the background. |
In spite of its name and ornate red,
black and gold band, there is nothing forbidding about the Forbidden
X. To complement the XS Calvados, it is slightly milder than the
OpusX, using more filler from the sweeter middle priming of the
plant. All seven tobaccos in the Forbidden X come from the soil-rich
Chateau de la Fuente. Some of these tobaccos have been aged as long
as ten years. Before rolling, the leaves are “finished” up to 45
days in French oak calvados barrels, which gives them a delicate
apple and butter spiciness. They are then rolled into a unique 6 3/8
X 49 shape by two of the Fuente’s top cigar rollers. Afterwards, the
finished cigars are aged in cedar for over a year, and are not
released until Carlito feels they are perfect. The result of all
this aging is evident from the very first puff, for the smooth spice
of the smoke is laced with gentle apple and oak nuances. Small
wonder I helped select it for this year’s Best of the Best in Robb
Report.
A cigar such as the Forbidden X
deserves equally spectacular packaging, and what could be better
than to pair it with Grand Pommier XS, the calvados that inspired
its creation. Special Grand Pommier XS bottles were hand-blown in
France, featuring a patented glass chamber that encapsulates one
cedar-warped Forbidden X cigar. The opening at the base of this
internal glass tube is covered with a customized Humidipak, which
keeps the cigar fresh, and a rubber seal capped with a hologram of
the Forbidden X logo alternating with a portrait of Don Carlos and
Carlos Fuente, Jr. The Grand Pommier XS and its companion Forbidden
X cigar have been christened Cigar In The Bottle, and are housed in
an elegant, French-fitted velvet-lined jewelry grade gift box.
Priced at $250 each, a portion of the
proceeds from every Cigar-In-The-Bottle will be donated to the
Disabled American Veterans Fund and the Cigar Family Charitable
Foundation, founded by Fuente Jr. to assist needy children in the
Dominican Republic. Initial release will be on the West Coast, Las
Vegas, Chicago and the U.S. Virgin Islands. Not only is it a perfect
spirit and cigar pairing, but according to Johnny Soyak, "It’s the
perfect gift for the man who has almost everything."
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 Lights, Camera,
Smoke! - (l. to r.) Trumpet virtuoso Arturo Sandoval, actor Andy
Garcia, and Carlos Fuente, Jr. in front of the Casa Fuente bar
during the star-studded grand opening. The painted legend on the
wall says, “Fuente —- an inexhaustible source of quality, aroma,
and pleasure.” Photo credit: Marc Blake - Sword of Creation
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CASA FUENTE - A LUCKY SMOKE IN LAS
VEGAS by Richard Carleton
Hacker
If you’re looking for the
world’s rarest Dominican cigars, you can get lucky at the
newest cigar bar and boutique in Las Vegas - Casa Fuente. The
world’s first Fuente-authorized retail store, Casa Fuente is a
joint project between FreyBoy Tobacco of Las Vegas, Holt’s
Tobaccos of Philadelphia, and Arturo Fuente. Located in the
Forum Shops of Caesar’s Palace, the humidor stocks virtually
every hard-to-find brand made by Fuente, including Ashton VSG,
Diamond Crown Maximus, all 12 shapes of OpusX, and the
Forbidden X Cigar In The Bottle.
However, the real winner is the
exclusive Casa Fuente, a super-premium cameroon-wrapped cigar
only available at the store; it is not sold via internet or
mail order.
“The only place you can get a
Casa Fuente cigar is at Casa Fuente,” says Michael Frey of
FreyBoy. “Or have a friend come to Las Vegas and buy a box for
you.”
There is also a retail area
where Fuente branded shirts, Dupont lighters, and crystal
ashtrays, plus Panama hats and other accessories, can be
purchased. At the 1950s-styled Cuban bar, be sure to try an
espresso-based Carlito’s Way, which pairs well with the Casa
Fuente cigar.
“When I was at Casa Fuente, I
smoked a Casa Fuente cigar out in the front lounge area,”
recalls Matthew Bogosian, one of the developers of Cigar In
The Bottle. “Pretty soon, the ash got so long people were
staring, and started gathering around and taking pictures with
their cell phones and digital cameras. The ash got all the way
to the cigar band until it finally fell off. Everybody cheered
like it was the falling of Sadaam Hussein's statue!”
Casa Fuente The Forum Shops
at Caesars 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; Suite S-08 Las
Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 731-5051
-—RCH |
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